Dog - Dog Play
What is good play? When to intervene?
Firstly, most of us like to see our dogs play, and a good percentage of dogs like play.
Not every dog does though, and it is important that we look out for them and protect them from these situations.
When letting our dogs play there are a few things to consider.
Not every dog does though, and it is important that we look out for them and protect them from these situations.
When letting our dogs play there are a few things to consider.
- Size appropriate play (be careful allowing the Chihuahua and the Great Dane to play unless you know each dog personally and can supervise play in controlled manner)
- Number of dogs per play group (I keep it small 3-4 maximum preferably less). Any more and things can escalate quickly. I do not allow more than the 2 dogs to engage in wrestling matches.
- Encourage frequent play breaks – have a reliable recall – call the dogs out of play, come to you, sit, make eye contact – reward, and allow to return to play.
- Role reversal – play should never be one sided – this isn’t fair and is encouraging bullying. Play should be even. I chase you, you chase me, I bite you, you bite me, I jump on you, you jump on me etc.
- Body language – look at the body language of all dogs – if one dog is being overly pushy or assertive, remove them, if one dog is looking uncertain or worried, allow them to gain space.
- Look at the ears (are they relaxed?)
- Look at their tails (What is normal for the breed? How high is the tail? What is the wag like? High stiff wags can be a sign of intent, but not play)
- Look at their general facial expressions and body position/posture
- Body movements -are they soft, relaxed, stiff, high, low etc.
- Look at the ears (are they relaxed?)
What do we want to see?
Play solicitation through play bows (bum up head down), paw slaps and play invitation barks, exaggerated jumping and side to side movements instead of forward or back, turning and hitting with hip/butt.
Relaxed bodies that are floppy and curving. If the dog is stiff or straight they may be uncomfortable in the situation and it could escalate to a fight.
Do not panic if you hear some growling in play – look at the big picture and assess from here. Of course, if one dog is looking tense or worried, time go break the play.
Play solicitation through play bows (bum up head down), paw slaps and play invitation barks, exaggerated jumping and side to side movements instead of forward or back, turning and hitting with hip/butt.
Relaxed bodies that are floppy and curving. If the dog is stiff or straight they may be uncomfortable in the situation and it could escalate to a fight.
Do not panic if you hear some growling in play – look at the big picture and assess from here. Of course, if one dog is looking tense or worried, time go break the play.
When to intervene.
One dog is obviously bullying another – chasing without role reversal, biting at the dog it is chasing, stiffness and pinning and not allowing dog to get up, neck biting with stiffness, or standing stiffly over the other dog with his head over the other dog’s shoulders. Remove the bully dog.
One dog is not having fun – body position is low, tail is tucked, trying to avoid other dogs etc, snapping at the approaching dogs. Remove the dog not having fun or increase space and protect from the other dogs.
You can hear the arousal levels increasing, or more dogs have joined in. Play break and encourage play in to smaller groups or quit for the day.
More than 2 dogs are wrestling – this can quickly escalate if one dog becomes trapped or unintentionally hurt and panics.
Playing tug of war between two dogs, and one starts to become possessive and guard the toy. Look at the body language of both and listen to the changes in vocalisation. Swap for the tug toy and put it away.
Excessive neck biting and or barking. Especially when a younger dog is doing to an older dog – this is just rude behaviour and is likely to end badly. Take the biting/barking dog away. Give some time to calm down – mat training etc or a sniff walk out of the park. If at home, confinement training – pop in a crate or confined area with something to do – a long lasting chew or stuffed kong etc – it is not punishment so shouldn’t be considered a time out, it is just allowing the dog to calm down.
Humping – interrupt, play break, and allow to go back. If it continues remove the humper dog. This is rude, can be painful for the other dog (especially if they are older or have bad back/hips).
References
Bennett, R. and Briggs, S. (2008). Off-leash dog play. Woodbridge, VA: Dream Dog Productions.
Dog Behavior Blog. (2018). Dogs Playing Together: The Good, The Bad, The Ugly. [online] Available at: http://www.dogbehaviorblog.com/2010/12/dogs-playing-together-the-good-the-bad-the-ugly.html [Accessed 27 Mar. 2018].
Victoria Stilwell Positively. (2018). Understanding Dog Play. [online] Available at: https://positively.com/dog-training/understanding-dogs/understanding-dog-play/ [Accessed 27 Mar. 2018].
One dog is obviously bullying another – chasing without role reversal, biting at the dog it is chasing, stiffness and pinning and not allowing dog to get up, neck biting with stiffness, or standing stiffly over the other dog with his head over the other dog’s shoulders. Remove the bully dog.
One dog is not having fun – body position is low, tail is tucked, trying to avoid other dogs etc, snapping at the approaching dogs. Remove the dog not having fun or increase space and protect from the other dogs.
You can hear the arousal levels increasing, or more dogs have joined in. Play break and encourage play in to smaller groups or quit for the day.
More than 2 dogs are wrestling – this can quickly escalate if one dog becomes trapped or unintentionally hurt and panics.
Playing tug of war between two dogs, and one starts to become possessive and guard the toy. Look at the body language of both and listen to the changes in vocalisation. Swap for the tug toy and put it away.
Excessive neck biting and or barking. Especially when a younger dog is doing to an older dog – this is just rude behaviour and is likely to end badly. Take the biting/barking dog away. Give some time to calm down – mat training etc or a sniff walk out of the park. If at home, confinement training – pop in a crate or confined area with something to do – a long lasting chew or stuffed kong etc – it is not punishment so shouldn’t be considered a time out, it is just allowing the dog to calm down.
Humping – interrupt, play break, and allow to go back. If it continues remove the humper dog. This is rude, can be painful for the other dog (especially if they are older or have bad back/hips).
References
Bennett, R. and Briggs, S. (2008). Off-leash dog play. Woodbridge, VA: Dream Dog Productions.
Dog Behavior Blog. (2018). Dogs Playing Together: The Good, The Bad, The Ugly. [online] Available at: http://www.dogbehaviorblog.com/2010/12/dogs-playing-together-the-good-the-bad-the-ugly.html [Accessed 27 Mar. 2018].
Victoria Stilwell Positively. (2018). Understanding Dog Play. [online] Available at: https://positively.com/dog-training/understanding-dogs/understanding-dog-play/ [Accessed 27 Mar. 2018].