Puppy Socialisation and Fear Periods
Socialisation isn’t just about your dog meeting new dogs. It also includes the introduction of new people, objects, novel experiences and other animals. The most important thing is that this is done in a controlled manner, and your dog is never forced into an interaction. Any new person/pet/object/experience must result in good things (BBQ chicken is usually classed as a good thing by most dogs).
Your puppy or dog, needs to be able to deal with some stressors in life (don’t we all), however, they also need to understand, that if in a situation that is uncomfortable for them, that you have their back and will observe and create distance and safety whenever needed.
Ideally puppies should meet as many new people/pets and have new experiences as possible prior to 12 weeks of age. The ideal number is 100 new people before 12 weeks. Trust me, that is a lot of people! I have done this successfully with both Poco and Humphrey (obtained at 8 weeks). This period prior to 12 weeks is known as the critical period for socialisation.
Your puppy or dog, needs to be able to deal with some stressors in life (don’t we all), however, they also need to understand, that if in a situation that is uncomfortable for them, that you have their back and will observe and create distance and safety whenever needed.
Ideally puppies should meet as many new people/pets and have new experiences as possible prior to 12 weeks of age. The ideal number is 100 new people before 12 weeks. Trust me, that is a lot of people! I have done this successfully with both Poco and Humphrey (obtained at 8 weeks). This period prior to 12 weeks is known as the critical period for socialisation.
So the most important period for your dog, is usually their first month in your home. It is such a small time frame that shapes an adult dog’s temperament. It can literally make or break a puppy and turn your dog into a confident, well-mannered companion or the possibility that your pup may grow up with a greater tendency to be fearful and potentially unfriendly.
Remember when meeting new people and pets, that your puppy is unlikely to be fully protected by vaccination prior to 12 weeks, and sometimes up to 16 weeks depending on vaccination protocol and vaccines used. This however doesn't mean that your pup cannot meet new people and pets and have new experiences. Small puppies can be carried and can still get the benefit of meeting new people and animals, larger pups can be carried if you have the muscles, or why not invest in a pram or similar.
Something to consider when choosing your puppy. Single pups (only 1 puppy in the litter) or hand reared puppies have usually had insufficient play opportunity. It is during play with litter mates that bite inhibition is most learnt. If you have a singleton pup or hand raised puppy, arrange their enrolment in a suitable, reward based puppy class that manages play carefully as soon as possible. It is this play and socialisation that will help teach your puppy to have a “soft” mouth.
However, puppy school shouldn't be all about play. It is important that your pup can learn to be calm and settled around other dogs also.
Remember when meeting new people and pets, that your puppy is unlikely to be fully protected by vaccination prior to 12 weeks, and sometimes up to 16 weeks depending on vaccination protocol and vaccines used. This however doesn't mean that your pup cannot meet new people and pets and have new experiences. Small puppies can be carried and can still get the benefit of meeting new people and animals, larger pups can be carried if you have the muscles, or why not invest in a pram or similar.
Something to consider when choosing your puppy. Single pups (only 1 puppy in the litter) or hand reared puppies have usually had insufficient play opportunity. It is during play with litter mates that bite inhibition is most learnt. If you have a singleton pup or hand raised puppy, arrange their enrolment in a suitable, reward based puppy class that manages play carefully as soon as possible. It is this play and socialisation that will help teach your puppy to have a “soft” mouth.
However, puppy school shouldn't be all about play. It is important that your pup can learn to be calm and settled around other dogs also.
Your puppy can socialise with vaccinated dogs and puppies – they can come to your house or you to them. Avoid high traffic areas such as dog parks and walking tracks – as these will have several dogs per day with unknown vaccination status use them. Canine Parvovirus can stay active in the ground for up to 12 months after it was deposited. Remember to carry your puppy whenever he/she is outside of your yard – especially from the car to the vet clinic, car to house and vice versa.
Puppies and dogs go through “fear periods”. A fear period is often noticed by canine owners as a period of sudden onset in which your dog becomes afraid of people, pets, objects and even places – these are often things they have been previously comfortable with.
It is during this time that gentle positive exposure to new people/pets/experiences can have the greatest effect. It is also during this time, that a bad experience can create fear which is difficult to overcome later in life. If you are unable to protect your pup and ensure they have a positive experience, it may be better to avoid the experience all together.
Most people realize that puppies have a fear period, however are unaware that there are actually up to 4 recognised fear periods. The first is usually between the ages of 8-10 weeks, and again around the 5-7 months. This second fear period is also at the time many owners are advised to or choose to desex their dog. If your dog is due for desexing and appears to be having a fear period – consider delaying the procedure by a week or two.
However it is often commonly overlooked that they have another two “fear periods”. The third fear period occurs as they enter social maturity usually around 10-12 months of age. It is often at this 10 month mark that people start reporting barking, aggression and fearful episodes.
The last fear period can occur somewhere between the age of 18 months and 2 years and varies from dog to dog.
What are you trying to achieve by socialisation?
Once again, it is important to continue the socialisation process in a safe and non-threatening manner. Expose the pup/dog to new people/pets and experiences and pair this exposure with a favourite food or game. If your dog is already exhibiting signs of fear and avoidance work at a distance that they feel comfortable and begin the counter conditioning process.
Counter conditioning is the process of changing an emotional state (fear/arousal/anxiety) in regard to a trigger (something that causes the emotional state in your dog), into a more desired emotional state (relaxation) when in the presence of the trigger.
For counter conditioning to work for you there are a couple of things that you need to ensure.
"During the socialisation process (and really during his entire life), it is imperative to make sure that he is around only friendly people and dogs. Sometimes, all it takes is one attack from a not-friendly dog to create a dog aggressive dog or one really bad experience with a person to create a human aggressive dog".
Dennison, 2014
Recommended reading:
Dr Ian Dunbar, has two great books that you can download for free from www.dogstardaily.com
They are “Before you get your puppy” and “After you get your puppy”.
Dr Ian Dunbar’s “After you get your puppy” book has homework schedules in the back.
An example of this follows below:
Puppies and dogs go through “fear periods”. A fear period is often noticed by canine owners as a period of sudden onset in which your dog becomes afraid of people, pets, objects and even places – these are often things they have been previously comfortable with.
It is during this time that gentle positive exposure to new people/pets/experiences can have the greatest effect. It is also during this time, that a bad experience can create fear which is difficult to overcome later in life. If you are unable to protect your pup and ensure they have a positive experience, it may be better to avoid the experience all together.
Most people realize that puppies have a fear period, however are unaware that there are actually up to 4 recognised fear periods. The first is usually between the ages of 8-10 weeks, and again around the 5-7 months. This second fear period is also at the time many owners are advised to or choose to desex their dog. If your dog is due for desexing and appears to be having a fear period – consider delaying the procedure by a week or two.
However it is often commonly overlooked that they have another two “fear periods”. The third fear period occurs as they enter social maturity usually around 10-12 months of age. It is often at this 10 month mark that people start reporting barking, aggression and fearful episodes.
The last fear period can occur somewhere between the age of 18 months and 2 years and varies from dog to dog.
What are you trying to achieve by socialisation?
- Teach your puppy to enjoy the presence of people. We need to ensure that it does not matter a persons age, ethnicity, size and shape - all are fun and enjoyable
- Teach your puppy to enjoy being hugged and handled (gently restrain whilst giving high value food rewards and plenty of praise. Examine ears, paws, tail, mouth, collar grabs etc)
- Teach your puppy to enjoy giving up objects when requested – train the swap cue
Once again, it is important to continue the socialisation process in a safe and non-threatening manner. Expose the pup/dog to new people/pets and experiences and pair this exposure with a favourite food or game. If your dog is already exhibiting signs of fear and avoidance work at a distance that they feel comfortable and begin the counter conditioning process.
Counter conditioning is the process of changing an emotional state (fear/arousal/anxiety) in regard to a trigger (something that causes the emotional state in your dog), into a more desired emotional state (relaxation) when in the presence of the trigger.
For counter conditioning to work for you there are a couple of things that you need to ensure.
- The food/reward/game needs to be presented after the trigger (not before – as this will just result in poisoning your food/reward as this is now the predictor of the scary thing).
- The ratio for reward:trigger needs to be as close to 1:1 as possible. If the postman is a trigger for your dog, and you are only home 2 out of 5 postman days per week your dog will quickly learn that the postman is not rewarding enough, and his relaxed state only occurs on days that you are home. If this is the case, talk to your postman and provide him with treats to give to your dog - he doesn't need to hand them to the dog, just toss them over the fence as he goes by.
"During the socialisation process (and really during his entire life), it is imperative to make sure that he is around only friendly people and dogs. Sometimes, all it takes is one attack from a not-friendly dog to create a dog aggressive dog or one really bad experience with a person to create a human aggressive dog".
Dennison, 2014
Recommended reading:
Dr Ian Dunbar, has two great books that you can download for free from www.dogstardaily.com
They are “Before you get your puppy” and “After you get your puppy”.
Dr Ian Dunbar’s “After you get your puppy” book has homework schedules in the back.
An example of this follows below:
References:
Dennison, P. (2014). Articles: Early Doesn’t Mean Only by Pamela Dennison at Positive Motivation Dog Training!. [online] Positivedogs.com. Available at: http://www.positivedogs.com/articles/early_doesnt_mean.html [Accessed 31 Oct 2014].
Donaldson, J. (2008). Oh behave!. Wenatchee, WA: Dogwise Pub
Dubar, I. (2001). After you get your puppy. Berkeley, Calif.: James & Kenneth Publishers.
Dubar, I. (2001). Before you get your puppy. Berkeley, Calif.: James & Kenneth Publishers.
Horwitz, D. and Mills, D., 2009. BSAVA manual of canine and feline behavioural medicine. 1st ed. Quedgeley, Gloucester [England]: British Small Animal Veterinary Association.
Overall, K., 2013. Manual of clinical behavioral medicine for dogs and cats. 1st ed. St. Louis, MO: Elsevier.
Dennison, P. (2014). Articles: Early Doesn’t Mean Only by Pamela Dennison at Positive Motivation Dog Training!. [online] Positivedogs.com. Available at: http://www.positivedogs.com/articles/early_doesnt_mean.html [Accessed 31 Oct 2014].
Donaldson, J. (2008). Oh behave!. Wenatchee, WA: Dogwise Pub
Dubar, I. (2001). After you get your puppy. Berkeley, Calif.: James & Kenneth Publishers.
Dubar, I. (2001). Before you get your puppy. Berkeley, Calif.: James & Kenneth Publishers.
Horwitz, D. and Mills, D., 2009. BSAVA manual of canine and feline behavioural medicine. 1st ed. Quedgeley, Gloucester [England]: British Small Animal Veterinary Association.
Overall, K., 2013. Manual of clinical behavioral medicine for dogs and cats. 1st ed. St. Louis, MO: Elsevier.
